Rock Climbing Costa Durada - Margalef

4 days in sunny Spain?

Well not exactly, whilst Britain has been basking in sunshine we had 4 days off and headed to a rainy place. That was of course the opposite of the plan... within minutes of arriving at the first crag Vilanova de Prades a thunderstorm started and we were tent and car bound for the evening.

Next morning looked promising and we managed 6 routes between showers before another thunderstorm. Pulling on pocketed conglomerate covered in limestone was tough on the fingers and toes though.

Storm clouds approaching...

One more quick route before the rain

The forecast looked more promising as the days went by so we headed for Margalef - what a great place SO much climbing at ALL grades - Mega!!

Roadside craggin in Margalef ... storms still threatening though...

Perfect pocketed rock!!

We decided to put the effort in whilst it was dry and ended up with even more sore fingers and toes after 20 route...arrrghhh. It didn't rain through! The following day we headed back to Vilanova de Prades and did a few more routes before heading home and saying goodbye to the Fiat 500!!

Rock Climbing Porth Dafarch

Today Anne and I headed to Porth Dafarch and climbed Fisherman's Friend a classy route up an overhanging corner. Anne 'crushed' Flakes of Wrath a steep very overhung groove route, and then we did The Smog Monster which is like climbing in the wall except you fear the flakes may snap. The weather was dry and sunny with a cold wind. There were lots of teams out coasteering today - if you are interested in coasteering then check out Snowdonia Outdoor Adventure.

Mountain Expertise has just published open course date for Summer 2012 -
Introduction to Rock Climbing
Rock Improver
Learn to Lead Climb

£350 for a 5 day course (days 1 & 2 on a 1:4 ratio, days 3 - 5 on a 1:2 ratio)
or
£150 for a 2 day course (1 day 1:4 ratio, 1 day 1:2 ratio)

The usual bespoke instruction courses are available, as are the inclusive accommodation and instruction packages which run in conjunction with the Bryn Tyrch Inn, Capel Curig.

27-03-12, The Needle, Shelterstone, Cairngorms - Scottish Rock Climbing



The mighty, Shelterstone Crag.

More classic rock routes on the mountain crags of Scotland. Today The Needle on Shelterstone. This route is a blast from start to finish, it certainly lived up to the hype! The whole crag is serioulsy impressive, good quality granite all the way up 250m or so. I can't wait to get back there! There was another team here today, all bone dry and not really that cold in the shade either.

The Needle, halfway up.

The Needle final crack pitch.

Loch Avon.

Shelterstone.

Hells Lum, drying out - it is in the sun for most of the day!

Ski Touring - Ortler, Stelvio National Park Italy

Winter has ended in Scotland. My final week of work at Plas y Brenin on a Winter ML assessment saw winter being confined to the highest summits, namely Ben Nevis. On Saturday I headed to Edinburgh to fly out to meet Cath, Helen, Lou and Belinda for some ski touring in the Ortler region. 

We spent a couple of days finding our ski legs and then headed off on an adventure. Fortunately there was a fresh fall of snow on the Monday so we had nice conditions for the whole of our tour. 

Heading through Passo Madrico on route to the Zufallhutte

Relaxing after a 'hard day' of skiing! 

The Marteller Hutte

Heading up Kollkuppe

Amazing skiing off Kollkuppe

and then there was more ...

Heading up the glacier to the Rifugio Casati - great sustrugi formations

Rifugio Casati in sight with Konigspitze behind

On the way up Cevedale.

25-03-12, Hammer/Trapeze, Glen Etive, Glen Coe - Scottish Rock Climbing



Hammer, Etive Slabs. The cheeky bold scoop followed by the sublime lay back corner crack.

The high pressure is firmly over us in Scotland and most probably the rest of the UK. Its halfway through March but the Mountain crags are in primo rock climbing condition! If you have work on this week, don't go, unless your crag is the office. Visit Mountain Expertise for more on this. I have had a great weekend with Francis climbing on the West. Hammer on Etive Slabs on Saturday - a most excellent lay back crack line, with some cheeky forays onto the bold slabs occasionally to heighten the senses! Sunday it was up to the west face of Aonach Dubh. We had hoped to climb The Big Top but there was already a team on it with another getting ready. We climbed Trapeze, which was brilliant - 4 pitches the last 3 giving good quality sensational climbing sometimes exposed and pumpy. The crag is dry and was very warm in the shade, the sun catches it in the afternoon.

Ben Starav, Glen Etive.

Best footpath in Scotland? The Rhyolite Romp, under west face of Aonach Dubh.

Awesome situation on The Big Top.

Trapeze, Aonach Dubh, Glen Coe - the 3rd slab pitch.

The Big Top, Aonach Dubh, Glen Coe - last pitch.

Funky Rhyolite.

23-03-12, Ardverikie Wall, Central Highlands - Scottish Rock Climbing



Ardverikie Wall, HS 4b, Scottish Mega route!

Another day in this prime Scottish rock climbing season of mid March! This time another 4 star must do classic; which has been on my hit list for quite awhile - Ardverikie Wall HS 4b 185m. Katie and I had a leisurely 11:30 start from the car park lay by, fine weather throughout the day, a slight occasional breeze, but nothing to complain about. The route was ace, 5 very good pitches on immaculate rock, ranging from vertical jugs, to delicate slabs, very interesting to climb. The guidebook claims it to be the best route of its grade in the country and I have to agree!



Up the pillar of rock just right if centre.

22-03-12, Magic Crack, Coire an t-Sneachda, Cairngorms - Scottish Rock Climbing

Coire an t-Sneachda

 I have spent the last couple of days wandering in the very hot and dry Cairngorm hills. The sun has been very enjoyable. Crags are dry, Hells Lum is soaking wet with the continuously dripping snow patch above it, Stag Rocks obviously dry, Coire an t-Sneachda very dry, as looked Shelterstone if a little shady! The Ptarmigan are starting to change colour. Today Katie and I went to Coire an t-Sneachda to climb the classy Magic Crack. It did not disappoint absolute class! **** all the way, the top pitch was sublime, very similar to Regular Route on Fairview Dome in Toloumne Meadows, California, and that is regarded as 1 of the 50 best climbs in North America! The sun was on the face from midday as well, a pleasant summer ascent in March - ridiculous! After that we climbed Fingers Ridge with the slightly wandering direct start. Again enjoyable. Some fairy loose jenga style blocks when you bust out to join the original line with winter scratches everywhere; to be honest it probably would make a better winter route. The Magic Crack however probably a better rock route. Hopefully this glorious weather is going to hang around for some more mountain cragging.

Katie cruising the very fine final finger crack of Magic Crack.

**** Magic Crack, HVS 5a, Coire an t-Sneachda.

Fingers Ridge.